Tuesdays with Dorie 3 of 13

The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart
From Baking from My Home to Yours
By Dorie Greenspan

This weeks assignment for TWD was suggested by

Mary from Starting from Scratch.

This weekly baking adventure really is expanding my repertoire. Flan and now lemon cream tart, I never would have chosen these on my own.... and speaking of that, next week's recipe selection is marshmallows!

Judy of Judy’s Gross Eats has chosen…

Marshmallows on pages 404-405

Home made marshmallows - I didn't even know there was such a thing.
Well, anyway, this weekly challenge has sent me in new directions that I really appreciate. This week's lesson was in the area of the crust. The recipe suggests using a food processor which I do not own. I do, however, own a pastry cutter-thingy so I used that instead. My problem came when all the butter was cut in and it still seemed like a pile of flour, just slightly grainy-er. So, being my uneducated self, I added and 2nd egg yolk and a dab of water until it could at least hold together when smashed. The result was a slightly strange, slightly yolky tasting crust that apparently no one but myself noticed. Despite my heavy-handed manipulations, it stayed pretty light and flaky. But, I do wonder what happened.
The cream went together pretty well - a challenge to continue stirring over a double boiler while constantly checking the thermometer for temperature. Some people on the site had some difficulty getting the temp to 180 degrees, but mine went pretty true to the recipe and after stirring about 8-10 min the thermometer hit 180. In my infinite wisdom and my apparent inability to leave a recipe alone, I added a wee touch of orange flower water - I love that stuff and it will often add a different layer of flavor to a dish, or a cup of tea. I don't know if it was the flower water or something else, but to my tongue the lemon cream had a distinctly odd after-taste. My official tasters - one of whom was a little frightened by the amount of butter she saw me add to the cream - the tasters loved the lemony taste and couldn't understand the funky taste that I tasted.... All in all, not my favorite, although the idea of a tart lemon tart was appealing and I thought it pretty. Maybe I'll try it again without the orange flower water and see if I like it better (but really it was less than a teaspoon...).


Here's the recipe:

The Most Extraordinary French Lemon Cream Tart

1 cup sugar
Grated zest of 3 lemons
4 large eggs
¾ c fresh lemon juice (from 4-5 lemons)
2 sticks plus 5 T butter (10 ½ ounces) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon size pieces, at room temperature.
1 9-inch tart shell made with sweet tart dough (see below).

Getting ready:
Have a instant-read thermometer, a strainer and a blender (1st choice) or food processor at hand. Bring a few inches of water to a simmer in a saucepan.

Put the sugar and zest in a large heatproof bowl that can be set over the pan of simmering water. Off the heat, rub the sugar and zest together between your fingers until the sugar is moist, grainy, and very aromatic. Whisk in the eggs, followed by the lemon juice.

Set the bowl over the pan and start stirring with the whisk as soon as the mixture fees tepid to the touch. Cook the lemon cream until it reaches 180 degrees F. As you whisk- you whisk constantly to keep the eggs from scrambling- you’ll see that the cream will start out light and foamy, then the bubbles will get bigger, and then, as it gets closer to 180F, it will start to thicken and the whisk will leave tracks. Heads up at this point- the tracks mean the cream is almost ready. Don’t stop whisking or checking the temperature, and have patience- depending on how much heat you’re giving the cream, getting to temp may take as long as 10 minutes (note: TWD bakers report average of 20-30 and up to 40 minutes for this step…..and sometimes it never got above 160F but turned out ok!!)

As soon as it reaches 180F, remove the cream from the heat and strain it into the container of the lender (or food processor); discard the zest. Let the cream stand, stirring occasionally, until it cools to 140 degrees F, about 10 minutes.

Turn the blender to high (or turn on the processor) and, with the machine going, add the butter about 5 pieces at a time. Scrape down the sides of the container as needed as you incorporate the butter. Once the butter is in, keep the machine going- to get the perfect light, airy texture of lemon-cream dreams, you must continue to bend the cream for another 3 minutes. If your machine protests, and gets a bit too hot, work in 1-minute intervals, giving the machine a little rest between beats.

Pour the cream into a container, press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface to create an airtight seal and refrigerate at least 4 hours, or overnight. (the cream will keep in the fridge for 4 days or, tightly sealed, in the freezer for up to 2 months; thaw it overnight in the refrigerator)

When you are ready to assemble the tart, just whisk the cream to loosen it and spoon it into the tart shell. Serve the tart, or refrigerate until needed.





Sweet Tart Dough
1 ½ cups all purpose flour
½ cup confectioners’ sugar
¼ tsp salt
1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (9 T) very cold (or frozen) unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk

Put the flour, sugar, and salt in a food processor and pulse a couple of times to combine. Scatter the pieces of butter over the dry ingredients and pulse until the butter is coarsely cut in- you should have some pieces the size of oatmeal fakes and others the size of peas. Stir the yolk, just to break it up, and add it a little at a time, pulsing after each addition. When the egg is in, process in long pulses- about 10 seconds each- until the dough, which will look granular soon after the egg is added, forms clumps and curds. Just before you reach this stage, the sound of the machine working the dough will change- heads up. Turn the dough out onto a work surface and, very lightly and sparingly, knead the dough just to incorporate and dry ingredients that might have escaped mixing.

To press the dough into the pan: butter a 9-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Press the dough evenly over the bottom and up the sides of the pan, using all but one little piece of dough, which you should save in the refrigerator to patch any cracks after the crust is baked. Don’t be too heavy handed- press the crust in so that the edges of the pieces cling to one another, but not so hard that the crust loses its crumbly texture. Freeze the crust for at least 30 minutes, preferable longer, before baking.

To partially or fully bake the crust: center a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees F.

Butter the shiny side of aluminum foil and fit the foil, buttered side down, against the crust. (since you froze it, you can bake it without weights). Put the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake the crust for 25 minutes. Carefully remove the foil. If the crust has puffed, carefully press it down with the back of a spoon. For partially baked crust, patch the crust if necessary, then transfer the crust to a cooling rack. To fully bake the crust, bake for another 8 minutes or so, or until it is firm and golden brown. Transfer pan to a rack and cool the crust to room temperature before filling.

Enjoy, and join us...